


' A Tre atise 



'on Modern 



i i*.,^. Drawn Work 












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ILLUSTRATED 
PRICE 75 CT5. 



Fourth Issue of New Designs. 






Mrs. Isaac Miller Houck 



No. 25 Minerva St., I iffin, ()., U.S. A 










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TO INSURE PERFECT RESULTS IN WORKING DRAWN WORKW COL- 
ORS TUU AUTHOR OF THIS BOOK RECOMMENDS THE USE OF 

Brainerd (gL Armstrong's 

WASH E MBROIDERY S ILKS j 

These were the first Wash Embroidery Silks to be originated and introduced in this 
counrry. They have taken highest awards wherever exhibited and are today far 
and away ahead of all competitors. In this book they are referred to by the /^ 
abbreviation "B. & A." and followed by the correct shade number to be used, /^ 

It may ruin your piece to use any other silks that the dealer may say are 
"jast as good." 

Have you a copy of Brainerd & Armstrong's latest "Embroidery Book 
With Colored Studies"? 

It teaches embroidery and will keep you "abreast of the times" in working Centerpieces, Doilies 
Waists, Waist Sets, Table Covers, Sofa Cushions, etc. 

Mailed for i6 cents. Address 

TKe Brainerd (SL Armstrong Co. 

45 UNION STREET, - NEW LONDON, CONN. 








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BOLERO (JA,GKEIT WITk 5hOR.T ^^LEEVCS 




BRAIDED BOLERO 
or ETON JACKETS 

Jt R E THE L Jt T E S r 

Here is a chance to eet one at half pricel Like 
the picture— with two sleeves all stamped on 
a good quality of pure linen, just the right 
weight for the purpose. 

POSTPAID FOR $1.00. 

We also send materials to work it; of 48 yds. 

of braid and 6 skeins cotton in 

The Star Braid tor ...... $ .65 

The Soutache Braid for .75 

Mercerized Cotton Carnation Cord for - .55 

Pure Silk Carnation Cord tor .... $1_00 

Postpaid. Samples free. 

This is only one of the thousands of designs we 
have. Write for our catalogue which we %cnd frfe 
of cost, and which illustrates designs of all kinds. 

DEALERS will be supplied with "WHOLE- 
SALE PRICE LIST. 



Address all communications to 

GEO. B. MAGGINI, Cincinnati, O. 
216 Fourth Street, West. 

PERFORATED PATTERNS. ART NEEDLEWORK MATERIALS 
P. S. — Mention "Modern Drawn Work" when writing. 



A TREATISE 

ON MODERN 

DRAWN WORK 



ILLUSTRATED 



PRICE 75 CENTS 







FOURTH ISSUE OF NEW DESIGNS 



Latest and Most Complete Book 
on the Subject of Drawn Work 

®h^ 190 7 gook 



BY MRS. ISAAC MILLER HOUCK 



No. 25 Minerva Street, TIFFIN, OHIO, U. S. A. 



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UBmmit oofieRESS 

1\M«MiinR«nM<l 

OCT 1 1906 

ai.A88 A kxo. Na 

/ t. / -^ ^ y^ 

OOPYB 



ENTERED ACCORDING TO ACT OF CONGRESS 
IN THE YEAR 1906 BY 
MRS. ISAAC MILLER HOUCK 
IN THE OFFICE OF THE LIBRARIAN OF CON- 
CRESS AT WASHINGTON. 

ENTERED ACCORDING TO ACT OF CONGRESS 
IN THE YEAR 1904 BY 
MRS. ISAAC MILLER HOUCK 
IN THE OFFICE OF THE LIBRARIAN OF CON- 
GRESS AT WASHINGTON. 

ENTERED ACCORDING TO ACT OF CONGRESS 
IN THE YEAR 1900 BY 
MRS. ISAAC MILLER HOUCK 
IN THE OFFICE OF THE LIBRARIAN OF CON- 
GRESS AT WASHINGTON. 

ENTERED ACCORDING TO ACT OF CONGRESS 
/JV THE YEAR 1897 BY 
MRS. ISAAC MILLER HOUCK 
IN THE OFFICE OF THE LIBRARIAN OF CON- 
GRESS AT WASHINGTON. 



ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 





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e^ 



Foreword. 



XJO regrets arise for the efforts 
required in launching some- 
thino- new on the art of Drawn 
Work. Others were in existence, 
yet continued in the old thoughts. 
That studies created in color with 
new and pleasing stitches have 
been appreciated, has been proven 
without a doubt. The first issue 
was soon exhausted. A second and third followed. Still 
a demand for another. The words of praise and apprecia- 
tion has made this the fourth issue a pleasure work. An 
earnest thought enters into each study, that it may please 
the students of this art. 




A Treatise Ox Modern Drawn Work 



It is through the earnest appeal for another issue and the kind words of appreciation by patrons of former 
books that I present this my Fourth Issue. With the hope it will please all those perusing its pages, I dedicate 
same to all interested in the Stitches of Drawn Work. 



Suggestions on the Planning of Work, also a Talk 

Regarding Materials 




Many questions come to me regarding the choosing of materials. Although given with the 
descriptions of pieces, yet I feel it a sense of duty to enter into a personal plea on this page. It 
does mean much to be able to choose materials that not only help to make the work itself a 
pleasure, but to have it come out new each time of laundering. Linen of the pillow-case grade, 
sound thread and free from dressing, serves best for most purposes. If a wider linen is required, 
a fine sheeting can be used. It is not necessary to launder this linen before using, as the threads 
draw easily. 

As to thread, if the article is to have hard usage I suggest a cotton, linen or the mercerized. 
Weight of thread to compare with linen used. If color, such as Filo or Roman, is desired, use 
it on pieces of colored linen, or those not requiring much laundering. In doing up pieces done 
in color treat as you would embroidery, by doing each piece complete before wetting another. 
Do not have water very hot; use a mild soap. By following these suggestions you will be helped 
in manv wavs. 



Note — In this talk with patrons I suggest the choosing of proper linen, 
of Elder & Johnston, Dayton, Ohio. Personally I know them to be reliable. 



I refer you to the firm 
Ask for samples. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



First Steps — Drawing of Threads 




No. 1. FIRST STEPS-DRAWING OF THREADS 



Three thoughts are to be con- 
sidered in the beginning steps of 
Drawn Work. First, what shall I 
make? Second, the dimensions of 
the piece. Third, the material to be 
used. Choose patterns from the 
book, then follow descriptives closely 
as dimensions and materials will be 
given. 

Cut No. I demonstrates the draw- 
ing of the threads as in a border; 
draw likewise for hemstitching, only 
fewer threads. In drawing for hem 
measure width of hem required and 
draw threads the entii^e length. In 
regulating the space the better way 
is to measure, as the width will be 
more accurate. After threads are 
lifted the following work will be hem- 
stitching and buttonholing. 



No. 2. Hemstitching 



The placing of the needle 
and lifting of threads are 
the principal thoughts. 
Heavy threads and materials 
were used that just how 
the work was done might be 
clearly seen; the hem, as it 
was turned over to edge of 
drawn space was held in place 
with a black thread, plainlv 
seen. The thought arises. 
Shall the work be done on the 
right or wrong side? The 
author prefers the wrong side 
for neatness; can be done 
from either side. Hold the 
work firmly over the first finger with thumb and second finger; the upper needle is lifting the threads, 
showing the first step; the lower is finishing the work by binding the thread into the linen. Be careful 
not to catch too deep; do not count; simply lift sufficient threads not to draw the linen. 




No. 2. HEMSTITCHING 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 3. Double and Diagonal Hemstitching 



Here are shown two styles of hem- 
stitching; either can be used where nar- 
row bands are required for the finish 
of hem or for table pieces, pillow cases, 
skirts or shirt waists. In the double it 
is the simple hemstitch on both sides of 
space. In the diagonal the one side is 
the straight hemstitching, on the other 
the linen strands are divided, binding 
half and half of each strand together. 
Use fine cotton thread for hemstitching. 




No 3. DOUBLE ANU DI \GONAL HEMSTITCHING 



No. 4. Preparing Work for the Frame 



As the subject of hemstitch- 
ing has been thoroughly de- 
scribed both by the cuts and how 
the stitch should be done, we 
now turn attention to button- 
holing. And as this work has 
always Vjeen the tedious part of 
the preparing, I will endeavor 
by descriptive cut and explana- 
tion to simplify same. 

In all of the straight style of 
Drawn Work threads can be 
drawn. Notice CUT carefully. 
You will observe that by draw- 
ing a thread on either side of a 
width suitably wide to create a 
neat buttonhole; then follow 
over this space with the common 
style of embroidery buttonhole. 
Much eye-sight and nerve strain 
is then saved and the work 
much more speedily done. 

One can do the work more 
neatly and satisfactorily. Pa- 
trons of fomier books say my 
way of doing all my studies cer- 
tainly prove that drawn work 
is not the tedious work that has been ascribed to it. Try at least one piece by following the arranging 
for buttonholing and you will never do the work otherwise. Size of piece same as adjusted in frame, ten 
inches square, one and one-fourth inch for fringe; margin of one-fourth inch; border one and one- 
half inch. 




No. 4. PREPARING 



A Treatise Ox Modern Drawn Work 



No. 5. Knot Stitch 



uUiUll,iaiui..ATj.u,»...uT-,.li*.j 



No. 5. KNOT STITCH 



The knot stitch is the foundation 
stitch of Drawn Work. This cut shows 
the needle as placed through the loop. 
I kindly ask that this stitch be studied 
careful] V, as it is quite essential to the 
worker to tie the knot securely and 
neatly. In making this stitch carry 
the thread to the left, then upward to 
the right, forming a loop. The needle is 
then placed under the thread to be 
turned and carried up through the loop, 
draw the thread firmlv and the knot is 
tied. Every elTort has been made to 
])roduce the cut plainly; also to make 
these explanations very thorough in 
showing how the work is done. 



No. 6. Three Studies Shown 



Outlining, binding and weaving are 
shown in this cut. By outlining is meant 
the foundation threads lain through the 
border on which figures are woven. The 
first thread, as shown in cut No. 5, is lain 
in center of border, using knot stitch to bind 
linen strands in clusters of eight each. 
Other threads are lain diagonally across 
border, separating linen strands as shown. 
After all threads are lain they are bound to 
a center with the knot stitch preparatorv to 
weaving figures. In one space the threads 
are being bound, in two of the spaces the 
laying of the threads are shown, in the other 
the weaving of a design is explained. The 
needle shows the taking up of threads. 
Weave back and forth as a shuttle. Take 
up or drop threads as figure indicates. 




No. 6. THREE STUDIES SHOWN 



A Treatise Ox Moderx Drawn' Work 



This Cut Represents a Beautiful Specimen of the Manx 

from the Isle of Man 



SPECIAL OFFER 



Have you a copv of the 
second or third edition? 

We have only a limited 
number of the second and 
third editions, and have de- 
cided to make you a special 
offer so long as they last. Do 
not delay, as they will not 
last always. 

In ordering mention second 
or third edition, that no mis- 
take may be made in securing 
the book you want. 

Either book sent by mail, 

postpaid, on receipt of 50 

cents. Address all orders to 

Mrs. Isaac Miller Houck, 

Tiffin, Ohio. 




THE AUTHORS PET 



Description of Piece in Frame 



As mention is made elsewhere regarding frames and their uses, will only add that the work 
is more neatly and quickly done when held in perfect shape, as it is when stretched in a bar 
frame. No drawing of threads evidence that the work will launder without difficulty. In 
the piece shown in frame, work is left in descriptive with the hope the wrapping and jeweling 
would be very plainly understood. In this work the barring off the linen into size squares de- 
sired was first thought, leaving a full yi inch of linen between open spaces. In some pieces 
these linen strands are not wound or wrapped; in the cut shown they were. Size of piece and 
how to plan for buttonholing fully explained in No. 4. Filo is used for wrapping. Start the 
thread on wrong side of buttonholing, wrapping on wrong side of piece by holding finger very 
lightly against linen strand, slipping needle around and around until linen threads are covered 
from section to section. After being wrapped the section where linen strands cross will look 
unfinished. Smooth coverings of Filo silk, called jewels, are created around the section; hold 
finger and carry threads as in wrapping. 

After the wrapping and jeweling are completed body threads, to weave on, can be laced 
through the cord formed by wrapping and through jewels. Weaving can be done in open spaces 
or around jewels. Comers are also shown in detail. Cut No. 8 shows more fully the details 
of comers. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 




NECESSARY FOR 
NEEDLEWORK 



Adjustable Bar Frames 

TN connection with publishing a Treatise on Modern Drawn Work. I am manufacturing the 
A Bar Frames, such as are used in doing all kinds of needlework by experts. Sisters in Convents, 
Schools and Academies throughout the United States, Wherever needlework is taught as it should be 
the Bar Frames are in use. They are the most desirable apparatus in needle work. Every lady who 
does drawn work and embroidery should have one. These Frames are made in three different sizes. 

Frame No. 1 is 28 inches long. Price, 60c. by mail postpaid. Frame No. 2 is 24 inclies long. Price, 50c. postpaid. 

Frame No. 3 is 20 inches long. Price, 50c. postpaid. 

These Frames are neatly finished and complete with bolts and thumb nuts, bars taped all ready for use. They will last a lifetime. 



Order by number that no mistake may be made in getting the Frame you want. 



ADDRESS ALL 
ORDERS TO 



MRS. ISAAC MILLER HOUCK, 



25 Minerva Street, 
TIFFIN. OHIO. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 8. Threads Lain for Corners and Border 









No. 8. THREADS LAIN FOR CORNERS AND BORDER 



I have had the question asked, How do you lay the threads for corners and borders? No- 
tice that parts of each style of work is unfinished. This will explain that the threads are lain 
diagonally across the border for figures, same as in coi-ner for corner figures. In arranging 
threads in this way the work will not draw. After the figures are woven each thread is long, 
sufficient for its place. In one corner space the proper way of laying foundation threads are 
shown. In another, after threads are lain, they are bound to a center and woven around three 
times, ready for figure weaving. In the third a wheel figure is partly woven, showing more 
plainly than words can tell how work is done. Notice this wheel complete as a heading of one of 
the first pages. The saw-tooth finish at edge of buttonholing is explained with the working of 
four teeth; simply loop the thread over the outlining thread, each time carrying thread down in 
buttonhole edge; repeat until small points are formed. In the border foundation threads are 
lain across the linen strands, using the knot stitch in binding same; the figures are woven same 
as corner studies — usually smaller. In this figure the pineapple is imitated with an odd corner 
figure; all buttonholing and hemstitching to be done before adjusting to frame. 



Note — Throughout the book you will notice the abbreviation of B. & A. B. & A. stands for 
the.Brainerd & Armstrong Silks. Notice the higher numbers represent the B. & A. Silks, while the 
lesser numbers represent the Corticelli Silks. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 9. Narrow Borders, for Collars, Cuffs, or when such 

bands are required 



No. I. Two bands are used, each being 
one-half inch wide; heni one-fourth inch. 
Space between bands, one-eighth inch. In 
collars and cuffs either India linen or mull 
are best, as they should be daintv. Sufficient 
unfinished work is shown to explain that hem- 
stitching was done on one side of either band. 
Weaving done on linen strands of inner side 
of bands. One outlining thread laid on which 
small web figures are woven. 

No. 2. Width of border, seven -eighths 
inch; hem, three-eighths inch; hemstitch on 
cither side of border, then weave a pyramid 
on linen strands, beginning with six and 
ending with two. On opposite side arrange 
the points to lav between others. In this the 
linen strands, showing between, were wrapped, 
simply carry thread round and round until 
all are covered smoothly. Colors used in this 
collar were "^I'^'rl'' • pi^k, .,^^^, l>lue, J/,",, 
red " ■' ^ 

No. 3. In this a wide border is executeil. 
Prepare same one and one-fourth inch wide; 
hemstitch on either side, then with the knot 
stitch tie a middle outlining thread through 
center; weaving then done on linen strands in 
point design afterward a diamond shape is 
woven against middle body thread. Color 
could be used to please fancy. Follow the 
descriptive cut carefully. 

No. 4. In this study is shown a style 
suitable to one dressing in mourning. Width 
of border, three-fourths inch, hemstitched 
on either side. Seven outlining threads are 

laid, on which small figures are woven alternate black and white. Follow well the description shown. 
No. 5. In this two borders of very dainty creation are united. These are so simple of construction 
I will not confuse the worker with analysis. Width of border one-half inch; hem three-eighths inch; 
space between border one-fourth inch. These borders being so quickly created they would do nicely in 
table or bed linen. 




A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. lo. Corner of Lunch Cloth 




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No. 10. CORNER OF LUNCH CLOTH 



Studies for lunch cloths are always desirable. An odd study is here presented, although 
the planning and the stitches are the same as will be described elsewhere. The fonns are circles; 
each part is left in explanation. Size of large circle, four inches across, di\'ided into one-half inch 
divisions, leaving a foundation of linen threads between each part. Let measure guide you ; leave 
a good one-eighth inch between. Jewels are placed on the sections where strands cross. De- 
scription of No. 7 explains well the wrapping and jeweling. Outlining threads are laid on either 
side of jewel and figures of four parts woven as shown. The second size circle is three inches 
across, divided into parts as large circle. Jewels and threads laid in like manner. Only a figure 
of eight parts occupy a place around the jewel. After weaving is done the threads that cross 
open space are bound to a center and a tiny jewel created. Third circle is two inches across; 
in this the center of linen is removed, threads laid from edge to edge of circle, until required 
number is placed. A star figure, woven as cut plainly shows, size of cloth, 48 inches; width 
of hem 2 inches. With a finish of hemstitching, linen should be of good body. A linen sheet- 
ing or damask is preferable. Use pure linen or the mercerized cotton thread. Number of 
thread to suit linen. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. II. Towel End with Initial 



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No. 11. TOWEL END WITH INITIAL 



Many of my inquirers ask for studies suitable for towels or scarf ends. An odd creation 
is here shown, yet simple and pleasing. The widths were first planned, then arrange button- 
holing, which is explained in Cut No. 4, making this work a pleasure. Width of narrow border, 
one inch, including buttonholing, or three-fourths inch wide; size of open spaces in pyramid 
three-fourths inch. The descriptive part of the figures, planning and weaving are so plainly 
shown no further details are needed. In narrow border hemstitching was done on either side 
against buttonholing, then weaving in straight fashion on four of the linen strands, weaving 
on one side, that the strands would divide diagonally. Use cotton thread No. 40 if spool, or 
a heavy if mercerized. Hem two inches, with a double hemstitch as a finish. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 12. Border Adapted to Drape Curtains or 

Table Cloth 







No. 12. BORDER ADAPTED TO DRAPE CURTAINS OR TABLE CLOTH 



A very quickly executed style is here shown, and is most effective and pleasing. Width 
of hem two inches; width of border two and three-fourths inches. Baste hem, then hemstitch 
border and hem at same time; also on other side of border. Border was divided in half by lay- 
ing an outlining thread, using knot stitch; another division was made, laying off a one-half inch 
margin at either outer side of wide border. The remainder of foundation threads and the weav- 
ings are so plainly shown I will not proceed further and not confuse with explanations. Corner 
is arranged by the planning of borders, after being buttonholed is divided into three open parts 
either way, leaving a division of a one-fourth inch of linen between each part. If for drape 
curtains use sheer material ; for table cloths choose heavy linen. Thread of mercerized cotton 
or linen. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 13. Borders well adapted to Collars, Kerchiefs 

or Shirt Waists 



No. I. A border three-fourths of an inch 
wide was planned in this. Hem three- 
eighths inch; hemstitch both at one time; 
weaving was done on the linen strands, 
weaving a point of pink on one side and 
blue on the other, using filo 'h"^'^'' pink, 
2^//j, blue, o^"?"!- It would seem impos- 
sible to plan a more pleasing, durable or 
quickly done style of work. 

No. 2. Border three-fourths inch wide; 
hem three eighths inch; baste hem, then 
draw threads for border, hemstitching 
both parts at one time. The laying of 
threads for figures is fully shown in cut 
No. 34, next to bottom border. Figures 
same except linen strands on either side 
of center weaving was wrapped. Color 
was used in figures, alternate green and 
lavender, %''l'f' , green, 2%%',, lavender, 
j's^/i; hemstitch and outline with spool 
cotton No. 50. 

No. 3. Another border speedily done, as 
no foundation threads are needed. Arrange 
for a one-fourth inch hem and a three- 
fourth inch border, hemstitching both at 
one time. Also hemstitch other side of 
border. Weaving is created on four linen 
strands, ending on two, allowing the weav- 
ing one side to grow between points on 
other side. Color can be used instead of 
white. 

No. 4. In this the work is so much like 




No, 1. 



No. 3, in Cut No. 9, I refer vou to that. You will 



note only four of the linen strands are used in doing the weaving on either side; forms in center are 
smaller. Colors are used. White for center, green on one side in points, pink on other. White '^"^"l'' 



e 1 4 
200 



pink, 



green 



9 4 

2 7 8 3- 



Width of border three-fourths inch. 



No. 5. This border is created in black and white, similar in style to No. i on this page; same width 
of border and hem; use black filo for weaving; the white shown is the linen strands between weaving. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 14. Table Cloth Study 






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No. 14 TABLE CLOTH STUDY 



This cut represents something ont of the ordinary for table cloths. Instead of the usual 
border thoughts, squares of three sizes are planned, largest one being four inches square, divided 
into seven open parts, creating six strands of linen to be wrapped either way. Turn to No. 7 
for explanations regarding wrapping and jewels. 

- After wrapping, jewels are placed on the sections and outlining threads laid either side of 
jewel, running from side to side of square; little star figures woven in open spaces; second square 
three inches, divided into six parts; no wrapping of the linen strands. Jewels cover sections; 
figure of four parts woven around jewel bv separating linen strands. 

Third square two inches. Remove linen center by cutting close to buttonhole edge, ten 
threads laid to a side, carrying them across as in Tenneriff wheels. Note carefully the unfinished 
out. These threads are then bound to a center and figure woven as shown. Width of hem 
two inches, finished by double rows of hemstitching. Arrange for buttonholing as described 
in Cut No. 4. Use linen, cotton or mercerized thread. 



Note — From the expressions of those receiving this book as a gift it is greatly appreciated. It 
will be just the gift ior jour friend and bring her many hours of pleasure, with kind thoughts of the 
giver. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn WorR 



No. 15. Picture Frame Design 




No. 15. PICTURE FRAME DESIGN 



This design carries with it many suggestions that scrolls could be arranged for. One or 
several pictures could be placed in one frame. Will not go into details regarding scrolls, only 
say there are a great variety of drawn stitches that could be used. Those used in this are fully 
explained in table scarf, a pattern of which you received. Embroidery done in white filo 
rTa.' 2''o'o\- Pink, green and rose of dainty shades for open work. Use pillow case linen. 
The portrait shown was my mother when in her teens. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 1 6. Jewel Pillow 




No. 16. JEWEL PILLOW 



In this pillow all will find pleasure in creating. Size of pillow eighteen inches. A margin 
of one inch is arranged before border is planned. Width of border four inches, divided into 
eight open parts, thus seven strands of linen are to be wrapped either way of pillow. Jewels 
of a variety of colors; the greater the variety the prettier. Refer to description of No. 7 for 
explanation of wrapping and jeweling. Arrange for buttonholing as taught in No. 4. Button- 
holing and fancy stitch in one inch margin; were done with red Roman floss, "b'Ta"' 2^^^.. wrap- 
ping with green j^i's^o- 
back of buttonholing. 



An etching stitch with pink outline embroidered silk was created at 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



Payson's Indelible Ink. 




"PAYSON'S" has been A HOUSEHOLD WORD for over 70 years. 

Received Highest Award. Medal and Diploma, Centennial. Philadelphia, 1876, and World's Fair. Chicago. 1893. 

SOLD BY MLL BOOK, DRUG, JtJiD PJtJfCY GOODS STORES. 

If Payson's Indelible Ink cannot be bought from local merchants cr druggists it will be sent postpaid on receipt of 25 cents by 

A. L. WILLISTON. Manufacturer. Northampton. Mass. 

Always in RED and YELLOW Wrappers. 







^\ . ^ MICHOICE 
'V* THE WISE 

HE FAVORTTE of the BEAUTlFUl 
AND THE REFINED. 

No other dentifrice purifies the 
breath with such dainty fra- 
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25 CENTS EVERYWHERE "^rj j 



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A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 17. Study for Sash Curtains 




No. 17. STUDY FOR SASH CURTAINS 



Manv inquiries have been received asking for open and quickly-created border for sash 
curtains. The border shown certainly fills these requests. Sheer linen was the material used, 
with cotton thread, No. 50, for the work. Bottom hem, two and three-fourths inches; side 
hem, one and three-fourths inches; double hemstitching; finish corner of hem. Other parts 
are finished with the hemstitching of border. Width of border two inches, with five outlining 
threads laid through each division. When figures are woven these threads are looped around 
the group of eight and a plain straight figure woven on the threads and linen strands; then are 
added threads from corner to corner for large figures, making in all twenty-four threads for this 
figure. Divide into four parts, twelve threads to each part Weave as shown. 



A Treatise On Modern' Drawn Work 



No. 1 8. Pillow with an Odd Corner 



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»^«, •T'^'v**"? 'j-* v» 'v'T* 'v'T' 'iTT' %»T»j''. 



No. 18. PILLOW WITH AN ODD CORNER. 



This cut represents two styles of stitches, wheat embroidery in one corner with a band of 
drawn work two and three-fourths inches wide around pillow inside of hem, carrying close to 
wheat, with a step created for the finish of each division in border. The square of linen can 
be arranged, size twenty inches, one and three-fourths inch for hem. A finish of double hem- 
stitching. The design should then be stamped in corner; then arrange for border by drawing 
threads for buttonholing, leaving a space of one-half inch detween hem and border. Divide 
the two and three-fourths inch border into five open spaces, leaving linen strands a full one- 
eighth inch between each space. Jewels of pink, green and yellow were formed on the section, 
alternate rows of each color. A body thread on which to weave was laid diagonally across open 
spaces, three in number and carrying through jewels; buttonholing on the edge of border. A 
star figure was woven around jewel on the body threads and the linen strands divided figures 
of three numbers of green, with web figure of yellow woven in open spaces by binding body 
threads to a center as a foundation. Embroidered jewels of dark and light green form a finish 

Onrtk-clli 6 3 7 rrrppn " 9 4 
B. Si A. 2 7 1' g^'^^^'' 2 18 1' 



for ending of border next to wTieat. Colors for jewels were pink filo, '^'"''""'"' 637 „i-oot, 094 



yellow, a'l'i'o- Colors for figures, green, 2%%\, 2^^^. 2%%%; weaving of webs, yellpw, ^iW'- 
buttonhole with green filo, /i",'*!. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 19. End of Sideboard- Cover 




No. 19. END OF SIDEBOARD COVER 



The cut on opposite page represents the entire design finished. Odd forms and curves 
were used, creating an effect most pleasing and out of the ordinary. The forms in which weaving 
have been done were prepared by buttonholing edges; the cutting could then be neatly done 
without injury to cloth. The drawing of threads, arranging for a bar foundation, as described 
in No. 7, was given first thought. Wrapping in one space; jewels and outlining threads on which 
weaving was done complete the work. In other spaces jewels were created to finish sections; 
then bodv threads laid and different styles of weaving done. Follow studies as shown plainly 
in cut. In the seven oblong forms the linen was entirely removed, threads laid and simple figures 
woven. Embroidered jewels and French knots add a touch to cover. White filo %^'l"'l^' i^oW 
was used. Size and linen to suit worker. 



Note — When showing your book to friends, if they are pleased and want a book, kindly give 
them the address. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 20. Sideboard Cover 









-^•>' 






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iti> > •iiiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiiiitinin»i<iMi»iiiiiii*iiiriiiiiiiiiiiwiiiiii>*>i>tunii 



uvtiiitiutiiiniiiitiittiiitiiiitiiiiuiuwuiuuuiui 



No. 20. SIDEBOARD COVER 



Note — Parents intending to place their daughters in an educational institution will please notice ad of 
Ursuline College in back of book. I personally know this to be a worthy institution. The Author. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 21. Description of Center Piece 



Note well the cut on opposite page. A glance will convince that details must be studied 
by the worker. This square of linen was purchased at an art counter, with hem and comer 
forms all prepared; also the flower stamped in two comers; the poppies were embroidered as 
stamped. The others, a square of drawn work, were designed to obliterate the flower, leaving 
stems and blossoms as stamped. The colors used in flower were adapted in drawn work. A 
barred foundation with jewels on sections, as explained in No. 7, were prepared in these squares. 
Outlining threads laid either way of square through jewel, dividing linen strands. Web figures 
were woven around jewels; also in open spaces. Arrange for straight buttonholing as explained 
in cut No. 4. 

Fancy stitches, such as etching, briar and embroidered jewels, add to finish of corner scol- 
lops, and in spaces between corners a band of drawn work was created, three bands united, 
each band one-half inch wide with buttonholing between as an edge finish. All buttonholing, 
also scollop edge, done in white Filo ''b'Ta.'' 2°o'o^ i'^ narrow borders used in band. I refer you 
to cut No. 35, using style as in lower border for the middle one, as shown in second from bottom 
on either side, weaving the web figure in open spaces. Dainty tints of pink, green, lavender 
and white were used, together with poppy colors. These can be supplied at art stores, using 
Corticelli or Brainerd & x\rrastrong. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 21. Table Center 




No. 21. TABLE CENTER 



Note — As regards laundering, treat those done in color or white silk same as you would embroid- 
ery, using care to do each piece separately and with mild soap. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 22. Doily in Pink, Green and White 




^^'P 



■^'■''■^^■>'l-t'illl.,-l'Uuulu.ult,,l.i.t,l,',u..,u,i,]n,''l,.,.,Oy;^^^ 



No. 22. DOILY IN PINK. GREEN AND WHITE 



The cut represents a pleasing style, suitable for many purposes. Borders, dress yokes 
pillows and table or bedroom pieces are prettily created in this style. Size of doilv eight inches 
width of fringe, one and one-fourth inch. Margin of one-fourth inch between fringe and border. 
Arrange for buttonhole as shown in cut No. 4, after buttonholing and hemstitching is completed. 
Border of one and one-half inches wide was divided into five parts, three open spaces, two of 
linen between spaces. These linen divisions were separated into two parts and wrapped with 
filo yellow, '^b"^''^"' 2^0° 1*4' i"6d, 2'!" 3^4. by wrapping small linen squares were formed at each section 
where linens cross. Outlining threads of pearl white spool silk, letter A were laid through cords 
formed by wrapping; also diagonally from corner to corner. Through open spaces these threads 
were bound to a center, making sixteen in number on which to weave the two designs shown. 
Weave with white filo, a^o'o^i; French knots were created around the margin of linen squares at 



sections, using embroidery twist, pink, ^i-:*^' green. 



Alternately remove from frame 



and fringe. Use pillow case linen free from dressing. Buttonhole with white filo, 2o^uv 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



I The ELDER and 
I JOHNSTON CO. 



>•♦•♦•♦•♦•»•♦•♦•♦•♦•♦•♦•♦•♦•♦•♦•♦•♦•♦•♦•♦' 



JINENS 



^v^ 



AS IMPORTERS OF 
NEEDLEWORK 

ART LINENS 



1 



We give very special attention to the fabric, insisting that the threads are /ust right. You find here- 

LINENS FOR DRAWN WORK, LINENS FOR EMBROIDERING, 

LINENS FOR SHIRT WAISTS. 



I 



The Right Quality. The Right Width From i8 to 90 Inches Wide. 



OUR MAIL ORDER DEPT. WILL SEND SAMPLES UPON REQUEST. 



♦ 

I 



I The Elder and Johnston Co., Dayton, Ohio. | 




J^jrFUceMi/ 



16 different flowers. Sent free to any address 



/"^ORTICELLI SILK is smooth, even, elastic and 
strong, and that every spool is "full measure." 
Corticelli costs YOU the same as common silk, but 
you get more silk, better silk, and stronger silk when 
you buy "CORTICELLI," which has held the 
world's record for superiority for over sixty-seven 
years. Think of what this means! 

We will gladly send you our new booklet, 
entitled "Corticelli Lessons in Embroidery," filled 
with the latest and most beautiful doily, center- 
piece and sofa pillow designs, and telling how to 
make all the different embroidery stitches; pro- 
fusely illustrated, including new Colored Plates of 



Corticelli Silk Mills, Box B, Florence, Mass. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 23. Corner Studies 




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No. 23. CORNER STUDIES 



As corner studies have been so tho?bughly explained a careful study of designs will enable 
one to create these. Calling attention to the saw-tooth finish around outer edge, will explain 
that it was done last, and formed by looping thread back over body thread, and secured in but- 
tonholing. Continue the process until point is formed around each thread. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 24. Table Square of Figures and Braid 



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No. 24. TABLE SQUARE OF FIGURES AND BRAID 

In explaining this piece, size and numbers of silks will be given with the hope that the work 
being so plainly shown by cut will be easily accomplished. Size of linen square, eighteen inches; 
one-half inch around edge, to which a finish of fancy ribbon was adjusted. Rows of button- 
holing. Lay off a one inch band of linen in which French knots were created. Another one 
inch band was created in center by buttonholing, French knots used as a decoration. A border 
three inches wide was laid off into one inch squares, by using an ecrue Battenberg braid; baste 
braid securely; then threads on which figures are woven are laid through edge of braid; linen 
is left beneath the work. Outlining threads of outline embroidery silk %'!&f}'\ yellow, 2%°i%, 
rose, 2^3' ti\; etching at back o^ buttonholing with same thread, green, 2%%°,, yellow, j^^i^; all 
other work with Roman, using red, 2%%%. green, 2%%''2, yellow, 2%°x%; for "buttonholing add rose, 
2%'o%. brown, j^j^j^j to those used for buttonholing for the weaving; French knots of all these 
colors blended. Natural colored linen was used. 



A Treatise Ox Modern Drawx Work 



No. 25. Table Center 



A very pleasing table center is shown on opposite page. The work, as arranged, is 
very interesting and quickly done. The cut represents parts darker than others. This is due 
to the parts worked in color. In giving descriptions, the colors will be arranged and numbers 
given. The same arrangement of piece would be equally pretty in white. The greater part 
of the work shown has been described in the first pages. Next thought will be given in size, 
materials and numbering of silks. Hem can be substituted for fringe, making it almost the 
same width. Either the double or diagonal hemstitching used as a finish. Size of piece, twenty- 
five inches; fringe, one and three-fourths inches; margin of three-eighths inch between fringe 
and first border. This border is clearly described in Cut No. 9. All buttonholing is completed 
before threads are drawn, thus the entire piece is planned and each part is arranged for numbers; 
buttonhole with green ''^"^''l'' ■,":i*:t\- First border five-eights of an inch wide, with web figures 
of white, s^o'o^ l^or center; with a finish of lavender, j't'/o' green, 2"s''.i\- The narrow outlining 
border is one-half inch wide. The linen strands are bound with rose, 2' (/A- Size of square, in 
inner border, one and three-fourths inches, divided into four parts each wav, leaving linen threads 
each way to be wrapped with white, 2''o'o°r> jewels of white, 2"„',/i. See Cut No. 7. Outlining 
threads of white spool silk are lain each way of square; fan figures of white, j^o^o^i woven in each 
corner space; webs of green. 2''o^s'(r fiH two spaces on either side, while small figures of green, 
s^s^s^i, fill center spaces. On alternate blocks an embroidery design drawn with a spool as a 
center, a small star figure of green, ■fs's'i' fiH space in center of circle; embroidered jewels of 
rose, 2'ii*7^i. 3-nd lavender, -^i'^u' fom^ a finish arovmd the outside edge; use fine spool cotton for 
hemstitching. Round threaded pillow case hnen, secured at Elder & Johnstons, Dayton, 
Ohio, was used. Remove from frame and fringe. 



A Treatise On Modern' Drawn Work 



No. 25. Table Center 




No. 25. TABLE CENTER 



Note — At my exhibits many ladies have asked for a card to send to some friend knowing her 
love for art work. In this book you will find a card or two. Please send to some one interested. 
Your kindness will be appreciated. The Author. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 26. Doily in White 




No. 26. DOILY IN WHITE 



This cut was left in descriptive of the work, knowing it would be helpful and save confusion 
with so much written explanation. Hem or fringe to please fancy- Width of either, one 
and one-fourth inches; margin of one-fourth inch between outside finish and border. Width 
of border, one and one-fourth inches. Buttonholing was arranged as explained in Cut No. 4. 
This is quickly accomplished and adds an embroidery touch; threads drawn in border; hem- 
stitching was done against buttonhole edge; outlining threads laid as shown, and figures woven 
on these threads and linen strands; bind threads and strands to a center, as explained by cut, 
small border adjoining comers are hemstitched, then woven two and two on linen strands; 
linen removed from comers. Threads were laid as for Tenneriff wheels, bound to a center, tied 
and -woven on as shown. Use white filo '^b'Ta.'' z^oW and pillow case linen. Battenburg a 
fine linen thread can be used. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 27. Design for Door Panel 



TS A AAA ^S 




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5>.,<l :v«v»vi fe»s i.5 s*(v;*i*^w;.***i»;:*iv;*iv;:5(i*; sws SuS iiviVi'; |»| 




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' " 'VAViV! tJ ;VAV»ViV! S-;S iViVtVii iwS 







No. 27. DESIGN FOR DOOR PANEL 




In this cut sixteen different thoughts form the creation, as most are described in other 
pieces and all are plainly shown. Measurements are here given, knowing that these are most 
needed. First the widths were laid off by planning for buttonholing as explained in Cut No. 4. 
Size of linen seventeen inches; width of all narrow borders five-eighths inch. Large square in 
each middle point; also in center one and three-fourths inches. Small squares with wheels and 
small star figures around jewels, one and one-fourth inches. Please note the arranging of bor- 
ders. Plan size of all small figures. It will be better to study the design than to confuse with 
detailed explanations. White filo ^'^"l'' 2°o'oS was used in this. Let your judgment decide 
that question. Sheer linen was the material. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 28. Towel or Dresser End 




No. 28. TOWEL OR DRESSER END 



As borders and fringe are used very extensively for towels and dresser ends, you will observe 
a very plain style in the cut before you. The border is left in explanation. The laying of the 
outlining threads are shown where no fan figures are woven. Care was taken that clusters 
of eight linen strands were grouped each tying, and three outlining threads were knotted over 
each of these groups. Width of border one and one-half inches. Any border found in the book 
could be used for the purpose. Fringe the linen close to buttonholing or hemstitching, then 
tie in knots to form divisions as shown. Care should be taken to tie regularly each tie; also 
to divide the linen threads evenly. Use linen thread No. 300 for the weaving. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 29. Table Scarf in Color 







(11111111(41 






CM,. 



No. 29. TABLh SCARt IN COLOR 



As a pattern of this design accompanies each book, a detail of pattern is not needed. Atten- 
tion to stitches and colors and a careful study of the detail part of cut will be most helpful. But- 
tonholing claims first thought. This should be completed before adjusting to frame; also the 
hemstitching. Width of hem, two inches; width and length of linen to suit table. A margin 
can be left between hem and design. Roman silk was used for buttonholing and weaving; 
double EE for outlining thread; filo for wrapping, and loop stitch around linen in forms where 
only a few threads are removed. Buttonhole with red, ^'^'^x^' 2%%"o' outline with green, /iVi. 
wrap with file lavender, 3%' 2*2- Colors for weaving, blue, o%%"3. 2''2"2°o; lavender, 2''5%'\. 



6 5 1. 

2 5 2 2' 



rose, 



574. 

2 » B 2' 



brown, 



2 4 4 5' 2442' 



A close application to detail study will give you the idea of how to place threads in forms 
ready for figures. Use a transfer paper beneath pattern; trace over linen, the pattern will appear 
on linen. Blue art linen was the material used. For all art linen, I find Elder & Johnston of 
Dayton, O., worthy handlers. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 30. Doily in Blue Linen 






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No. 30. DOILY IN BLUE LINEN 



As the work in this is self-explanatory, will adhere to measurements, color of thread and 
materials used. Size of square, eight inches; fringe, one and one-fourth inches; margin between 
fringe and border, one-fourth inch; width of border, one and one-half inches. Arrange for 
buttonholing as shown in Cut 4, buttonholing and hemstitching before adjusting to frame. Di- 
vide border into three open spaces, either way of piece, leaving a full one-eighth inch linen between 
each space. Jewels of pink ''b^^"^"' 2^/7^2- blue, 2^0^ 3^1' were created alternately on sections, wrap- 
ping out from jewels by dividing linen strands, using two and two of strands, lavender, 2°5^2^2. 
green, 2^1" ^'^ 4, around pink jewel, red, 21^3^^; brown, 2°/4''2- around blue jewel. See description to 
Cut No. 7 regarding jewels and wrapping. Buttonhole with pink, 2^/7*2- Remove from frame 
and fringe. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 31. Study on Brown Linen 



"9 



HWH^*H*Wt«*«tH*4itt'.tit-*m4'+Hl*«tU»««bW*'*»'(titttM*H**'**»»**»k«*M^ 




No. 31. STUDY ON BROWN LINEN. 



Size of square twelve inches. A hem or fringe as desired; either should be one and one- 
half inches. Margin of three-eighths inch between hem and border. Buttonhole planned as 
in Cut 4. using green filo Tr'A^X's^; hemstitch with red, ,\\\. Width of border, not includ- 
ing buttonholing, one and one-half inches in space between comers. It was divided into three 
equal parts, two open and one of linen: linen parts were wrapped and woven on as shown by 
cut. Wrap with red .'nW- weave with brown, ///,. A smooth finish of filo green, 2%%%, and 
purple, ,''8^^s completed this work. Close around small linen squares, outlining threads of white 
spool silk were laid each way through the wrapping and band of weaving. Small figures of 
lavender, ," ^ ',, pink, ,%'/n, green, 2%"6''2 woven in corner. The work is explained by detail. 
Use of all the colors for corner figures. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 32. Sweet Peas and Drawn Work United 



The uniting of blossoms and drawn work form a pretty creation, especially if the colors of 
blossoms are carried throughout the work. The blossoms should be given first thought. Choose 
as nature requires. Afterward these same colors can be woven in figures of drawn work, the 
only care required is not to weave the darker or very light shades together. The size of piece, 
materials used, and the work, will next be given attention. Size of piece can be regulated to 
suit the worker. The original piece is twenty-five inches, with a hem of one and one-half inches, 
finished with double hemstitching; a margin of one-fourth inch between hem and first border. 
Style of work in first border is explained in cut No. 9. The filo used is pink and green of the 
sweet pea shades. A margin of one-fourth inch between first border and pyramids. In this mar- 
gin small embroidered jewels of pink and dark rose. The corner squares are three inches, with 
a narrow border, one-half inch around. This border is ex])lained in cut No. g. The center 
figure or corner is explained in cut No. 8. Two pyramids of drawn work are arranged between 
each corner. Size of open space in pyramids one-half inch, with six or seven linen threads be- 
tween each square as a foundation for fringe. Entire piece can be arranged when the button- 
holing is planned. Buttonhole with white filo, j^'/,. Other colors may be selected from color 
card when blossoms are chosen. Select at all times fine pillow case linen, cotton thread for hem- 
stitching. Buttonholing and hemstitching should be done before adjusting to frame. Use none 
other than the Author's famous bar frames for doing drawn work. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 32. Sweet Peas and Drawn Work United 



'♦ffftfettftffitttttiiiftfi^^^^^^ 



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No. 32. SWEET PEAS AND DRAWN WORK UNITED 



Note — Ads contained in this book have been personally solicited. Patrons need have no fear. 
They are worthy. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 33. Doily in White 




No. 33. DOILY IN WHITE 



The style of border in this has been thoroughly explained in other pieces. The cut rep- 
resents the work plainly; detailed explanation is not necessary. Size of piece ten inches, one 
and one-fourth inch fringe. Margin one-fourth inch between fringe and first border, button- 
hole for the first border as planned in cut four; hemstitch for the second. Width of first border 
one inch, second three-fourths inch. Weave figure as shown or desired. White filo b"^^.' 2''o'o*i 
was used for figures; wrapping, and buttonholing spool silk, pearl white, letter A; for outlining 
threads and hemstitching use fine pillow case linen. Remove from frame and fringe. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No 34. Shirt Waist and Handkerchief Borders 




No. 34. SHIRT WAIST AND HANDKERCHIEF BORDERS 



Having been solicited many times for borders suitable for shirt waists and handkerchiefs, 
in these you will find six that will show prettily, very easy of execution and launder well. Reg- 
ulate materials to the article made. Only let me add, use fine goods, both material and thread, 
if beauty of work is desired. These borders are left in arrangement so thoroughly explaining 
themselves that further explanation is unnecessary, except in the one of block design. In this 
the jewel as a center of figure may puzzle. The buttonholing was the first work done. The 
border was then divided into three parts the long way, and square the other, leaving six or seven 
threads of linen running each way of border. Jewels are made on each section. Then the 
outlining threads are lain on either side of jewel both ways of border and fastening in button- 
hole edge. The star figure is then woven around the jewel dividing linen half and half, weaving 
on half of linen and one thread, until eight points are formed. After the figures are woven the 
outlining threads are bound to a center with a smooth knotting. All work should be in a bar 
frame, stretched before outlining threads or jewels are lain. The jewels are formed by first 
laying a few threads as a foundation, then covering over smoothly, leaving the threads in a 
broad fashion as an embroidered jewel. Do work from wrong side; your work will be more 
smooth; also lay outlining threads from wrong side. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 35. Continued Border Studies 








|'l('|l'ri[''''lV.i'4i'|'AA'LV'AV»'A'A''i'A.''|'A>'«'4''4'»iiA'i 



No. 35. CONTINUED BORDER STUDIES 



It is very necessary that the rudiments of all Border work be thoroughly explained. The 
different ways of laying threads for borders are shown. Notice the very narrow border, how 
threads are knotted on alternate strands of linen and looped around the other one — the web 
figure woven when the the thread is looped around. This border is very firm, and suitable for 
all styles of work. In the border, where threads are lain as in corner, the linen was cut close 
to buttonhold edge, forming square open space, leaving a narrow band of linen threads between 
each to be wrapped. After being wrapped the outlining threads were carried through these 
cords, as shown, and figures woven to fancy. The other borders are very clearly explained in 
the laying of threads and the carrying on of the weaving of patterns. Too many words in 
explanation only confuse; better to study cuts well. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 36. Drawn Work in Circular Style 




"'^S WSS^. 






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No. 36. DRAWN WORK IN CIRCULAR STYLE 

The question has been asked, Can Drawn Work be done successfully in circular stvle? In 
this cut you will learn that it can. A copy of the piece was taken before the entire work was 
completed, that the full details would be clearly explained by the work itself. After button- 
holing is complete and piece adjusted to frame the linen is drawn. Circle was opened in bar 
fashion, the openings being one-half inch square, with six or seven linen threads left either way 
of piece. In four parts of the circle you will notice some of these linen threads are wrapped. 
(See cut No. 7 for wrapping.) Next, jewels are placed over all sections when linen threads 
cross. Outlining threads are then lain two and two either side of jewels, figures and webs woven 
on linen and outlining threads around jewels except when wrapping is done, then the little figures 
are woven in open space. After figures are woven the outlining threads are bound to a center, 
with a smooth little knot. Care must be taken in opening circular work to lift the threads 
that arrange the bars before any cutting is done, then cut only the wide spaces next to but- 
tonholing. This pattern was arranged with three sizes of circles, the largest being 17 inches, 
the next 10 inches, the inner one 6 inches, making the open circle 2 inches. Scollops were formed 
with a glass. No talk on this design is needed as the cut talks for itself. Persian silk No. j'o'o^ 
for white, green, EE wash embroidery. No. /o%^2' for French knots and wrapping. Spool 
silk letter A, for white outlining. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 37. Dresser Cover in Blue Linen 




'^^li^^kJ^^i^'^'^/K^K 










No..)/, uktssfc-K Cover in blue linen 



The weaving in this cover was simply points woven with ecrue linen thread. On eight 
of the linen meshes as hemstitched, points are so planned that they occupy space between on 
either side of border. In the comer a small design on seven threads was woven. 

Width of hem, one inch; width of border, three-fourths inch. An initial is a most pleasing 
thought in this piece. Arrange linen size of surface to be covered. Blue art linen was used. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 38. White Table Center 




No. 38. WHITE TABLE CENTER 



So nian_y have asked for an odd drawn border. This piece clearly demonstrates the odd 
border. After the straight borders are studied size of piece can be arranged to answer purpose. 
A twenty-seven inch square is very desirable for many uses. If hem be used, have same width 
as fringe, which is two inches ; a margin of one-fourth inch between fringe and first border. Width 
of wide border, one and one-half inches, with seven outlining threads lain through, knotted 
on every alternate group of linen strands and looped around the other group. A circular fig- 
ure is formed around the group, where threads are looped, by knotting thread regularly to linen 
strands and outlining threads; three circles are formed, with a tooth finish to the last; the corner 
figure is woven after threads are bound to a center; beginning to weave on four threads, making 
eight such parts. Finish as shown. A margin of three-eighths between first and second border. 
Width of small border, one-half inch, with three outlining threads; the center thread is double, 
and is divided as thread is lain either side of center. The squares in odd border are three-fourths 
inch, and are drawn to arrange three squares, then one inside and outside of two center rows. 
Six linen threads are left between each square. Four outlining threads are knotted on linen 
threads running each way cff border; three styles of figures are woven, cut showing plainly how 
all are executed. The work was done with linen thread No. 700. The piece would be beautiful 
in color. 



A Treatise Ox\ Modern- Drawn* Work 



No. 39. Shirt Waist Studies 



On this page are concentrated a collection of designs for shirt waists, although through- 
out the book many others will be found. The three squares are to be used as appliques on a 
tucked yoke, removing the material from beneath. Size of large one, three and one-half inches; 
the other two three inches; width of narrow border three-fourths inch, button hole, hemstitch 
and weave figures, which are plainly explained in details. 

As chemisetts are much in favor and easily created one is shown. Collar in detail, explain- 
ing more fully the middle border; also the squares in appliques for yoke. Measurements of 
borders are, center, one and one-fourth inch; next to center and outside ones, one-half inch; 
the one between, three-fourths inch. The buttonholing and hemstitching completed before 
adjusting to frame. 

The four narrow borders are explained in detail of table scarf. Cut 29. Pillow case linen 
and mercerized cotton were the materials. 

In the shirt waist shown material of India Imen suitable; spool cotton No. 90 for hemstitch- 
ing; outlining threads of cotton, No. 50; point lace thread No. 700 for weaving; double hem- 
stitching as a finish for hem. Width of narrow border, one-half inch, with three outlining threads. 
Webs were woven in spaces between groups of linens. Wide border, one inch. Eight of the 
linen strands were bound in groups; six outlining laid throughout. The border figures woven 
as shown. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 39. Shirt Waist Studies 




A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 40. Four Doilies Shown 



To gain as many studies as possible, four are shown on opposite page, each one being decidedly 
different from the other. The work was done in color, causing some parts to look darker. Colors will 
be given for each piece, also size. Piece of three narrow borders represent a rarity of web studies. Size 
of piece nine inches; fringe, one and one-fourth inch, buttonhole with filo green, ^b"^""' 2*0^/0; fii'st border 
three-fourths inch. Hemstitch linen strands against buttonholing. Five outlining threads of white 
spool silk are lain through, binding linen strands into groups of five. On alternate groups the threads are 
looped around and knot stitch webs woven. One of lavender, ," .5^2*2' pink, j^'e'oi one corner of web green, 
2%%%, edged with pink, 2%' 5^0. the other of lavender, 2° 5^2*2; then green, 2*0^5%- edged with pink, j^s'e'o; second 
border five-eighths inch wide. The arrangement of this border is plainly shown in cut No. 9, where a 
few threads of linen are left and wrapped, these threads lain through cords, and from edge to edge of 
buttonholing, then each way. Wrap with white filo, 2V o\ Outline with white spool silk. Weave webs 
from wrong side, with green, /j's^,', and rose, ^^a^^^^i'- third border three eighths inch wide, prepared same 
as first border, small webs of pink filo, j^s'b^o- In border with comer webs of green, 2%" 3%- Have all 
buttonholing and hemstitching done before adjusting to frame. 

Second one described is the one with threads lifted through the entire piece. Size of piece eight 
inches; fringe, one inch. Margin of one fourth inch between fringe and buttonholing. Comers one and 
one-fourth inches square. Threads are lain in comers and work done as described in No. 8 design, woven 
with s^o^^il pnik, z^s^^o^ green, 2*7''8''2- The remainder of square opened with space one-half inch square, 
leaving six or seven threads to be wrapped. See cut No. 7 in center of piece, while between comers out- 
lining threads are lain each side of jewel, and star figure woven around jewel. See cut No. 10. One 
border is opened thus: jewels of yellow filo, ■J'g''s^2- Star figures of blue, 2° 2^ 7^1- Wrapping in center with 
rose filo, 2^%*2- Jewels of green, 2%%^3. 2'u%"r Fine linen and single threads. 



Description of Piece with Hem 

Size of piece ten inches; hem three-fourths inch, with a finish of double hemstitching. See cut 
No. 3. The buttonholing was then arranged as is shown, following cut No. 3. The entire piece can be 
planned in this way. Width of wide border two inches. Narrow border three-fourths inch, extending 
across wide border, forming comer square and space between. The corners and spaces between are 
opened after the bar style. Space one-half inch with six or seven linen threads between. Jewels of 
white filo 2''o\iS' ^re lain over all sections, then outlining threads of white spool silk lain each side of jewels 
in comers. Webs are woven from wrong side of piece around the jewels with an edge finish of weaving 
back and forth on linen and outlining threads. In the space along sides of piece the outlining threads 
are lain as in corner. Linen strands were divided in the weaving, making four parts around each jewel. 
Outlining threads are bound to a center and tied with a smooth knotting. 

The beginning and weaving of narrow borders is fuUv given in cut No. 5. The soft tints of pink 
and green would be most beautiful in toning the work. Hemstitch with fine cotton No. 80. Buttonhole 
and weave with white filo 2''o'o\- Piece with wheel corners is ten inches, with fringe one inch. Margin 
of one-fourth inch between fringe and border. Width of border two inches. Arrange buttonholing 
first; border next thing in view; spaces between comers are divided into four parts one way and five the 
other, with six or seven linen threads between each part to be wrapped. In this wrapping was done in 
pink, '^ 2^/7' 3^; jewels of white, 2''o\''i- Three outlining threads lain each way through cords with white 
spool silk. Fan figures of green filo, ^^y^/a, are woven in two spaces, and figures of pink, ^2' 4^*7' a''- edged 
with green, 2'\'*f,"2i in two center spaces. The comer figures are explained in cut No. 8, and on page of 
corner studies use pink, ^2'// 3°; green, 2*7° 8% and 2^/.i^2; white, 2°o'o%- Remove from frame and fringe. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



No. 40. Four Doilies Shown 




Note From the expressions of those receiving this book as a ^ih it is greatly appreciated. It will be 
just the gift ioryour friend and bring her many hours of pleasure, with kind thoughts of the giver. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



The Only ODORLESS, IMPERVIOUS Dress Shield 



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The lasting value of the finished 
work is wholly dependent upon the 
use of a soft, beautiful yarn. 

The finer, more attractive articles 
are usually worked with 

Columbia Yarns 

because their uniformity and great 
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The Columbia Book of Yarns with hundreds of styles, finely illustrated, 15 cents by mail or from your dealer. 

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I fi.r uTij ii i ,* fcf i iui) ii _r i \f~ i '>vT i»« ~*vr~ i ' ( *' ■ '* > ^ ' 



A Treatise Ox Modern Drawn Work 



No. 41. Sideboard, Dresser or Towel End 




No. 41. SIDEBOARD, DRESSER OR TOWEL END 



As the stitches of this border are so nearly like others throughout the book, this cut is left 
in detail. A plea that a careful study be given the detail and an adherence to measurements 
will result in understanding the border. A figured linen was the material used; mercerized 
thread for buttonholing and weaving; spool cotton. No. 40, for outlining thread. Width of 
hem two inches, finished with double hemstitching; width of border three inches. This was first 
divided with the knot-stitch into three parts; ea'ch part was then treated as a separate border. 
The middle division is a trifle wider than those on either side. 



A Treatise Ox Moderx Drawn Work 



No. 15. Border for Lunch-Cloth. 




No. 15. BORDER FOR LUNCH-CLOTH 



In this design three borders are united in a border for lunch-cloth. Square linen the re- 
quired size. This was forty-four inches; hem, one and three fourths inches; measure twice the 
width of hem and gauge by drawing threads for first small border, which is three fourths inch 
wide; hemstitch on both sides before drawing for wide border, which is one and one fourth 
inches wide; buttonhole around comers and hemstitch space between; border three eighths of 
an inch; third border, three fourths inch; buttonhole comer and hemstitch. The piece is now 
ready to adjust to frame. In case pieces are too large for frame, adjust one fourth. The 
narrow borders each have five outlining threads; cross the corner diagonally; the one is 
divided into four parts, the other into eight parts. The wide border has nine outlining 
threads, six strands of linen being bound together. This border is broken by web figures. 
The comer is divided into eight parts, using five threads to each. Use 80 cotton for hem- 
stitching, Corticelli spool silk, pearl white, letter A, for outlining, using filo Corticelli 614, B. & 
A. 2001, for weaving. Plain satin damask was used. 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



EMBROIDERERS, LACE MAKERS. PYRO-BURNERS AND WORKERS 
IN THE DECORATIVE ARTS MAKE YOUR OWN PERFORATED 



STAMPING PATTERNS 



AND DO YOUR 
OWN DESIQMNQ 




PRICE 

$5.00 



T?TD<vT PRjyF AT ST. LOUIS 
bJK^l PKlZ^t. EXPOSITION 



ALWAYS IN 

ORDER, AL- 
WAYS READY. 

A CHILD CAN 
OPPERATE IT. 

EASILY AT- 
TACHED TO A 

SEWING MA- 
CHINE. 



Awarded to the Department of 
Education of New York City 



■p ip A r\ npTT PT R F^PORHP ^ ^^^^ investigated the merits of the Barbara Pattern 
IS.l--'-^ i-^ A i 1 J-j rvLiI V^lV 1 Perforator and consider the machine very useful for 
Of Annie L. Jessup, Director of Sewing transferring designs made on paper to textile fabrics. 

Address The Barbara Pattern Perforator new^ork^cTty 



BRAINERD Ca ARMSTRONG'S 
HIGH GRADE DRESS SILKS 

These gntids sland among Silk Fabrics where our spool and skein silks stand among silk thicad— Strictly 
Highest Quality, always Satisfactory, our Reputation and Guarantee behind all. 

Ladies who have once used our Dress Silks say they have never found any in the market, at any price, which 
give as satisfactory service. A dressmaker who makes hundreds of garments a year, upon using our Taffeta for the 
first time, stales that she found it so pliable that it could be drawn through a small hoop and so firm that, when the 
finished skirt was placed on the floor, it stood alone. 

YDUR NEXT SILK WAIST, SKIRT OR DRESS LINING will please you better and give you belter 
service than the best you have ever worn if made of our Dress Silks. Buy the Best. Your garment will last twice 
as long and give you twice the satisfaction every day you wear it. 

The Dress Silks in the following list will give you Best Value. Best Service and Best Satisfaction; 
Black Silk Taffeta. Colored Silk Taffeta (Popular Colors!, Black Silk Peau de Soie. 
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Colored Silk Peau de Cygne (Popular Colors). Black Silk Louisine. Colored Silk 
Louisine Popular Colors). Black Silk Armure. Colored Silk Armure (Popular 
Colors). 

furnished on receipt of request with 4 cents for each sample. 
In writing us about Colored Dress Silks be sure and enclose 
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how and where the goods can be obtained. 

Your Money Back, if any of our goods upon receipt do not prove entirely satisfactory. 



SAMPLES 



ADDRESS 



The Brainerd & Armstrong Co., 



45 union street, 



NEW LONDON, CONN. 




TRADE MARK! 



A Treatise On Modern Drawn Work 



Special Notice 



TN the past, many inquiries have been 
received, asking for reduction in price to 
Clubs, of twelve or more. Also to agents. I 
will at all times allow lowest wholesale prices. 
The book is a teacher. No outlay for lessons. 
Please write for particulars. 



MRS. ISAAC MILLER HOUCK 



25 Minerva Street, 



TIFFIN, OHIO 




Cortieelli Silk 

WEARS LONGEST AND HOLDS 



^»»»ai» :»i » : 9 »a:»a » » 9»»i?^a»:»:»9» ».' » a iV^ 



4S 



I can personally 
recommend the 
Cortieelli Spool 
Sewing Silks, hav- 
ing used them for 
twenty years. 

Sincerely, 
The Author. 



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A Treatise On Modern Drawn" Work. 



URSULINE COLLEGE 

m^^^e^^ TIFFIN, OHIO ^^§^55.=^^? 




BOARDING-SCHOOL for girls, ofifering highest faciHties for a thorough, 
refined education. The courses in the dififerent departments are 
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plain sewing and to fancy needlework in all its varieties. 

Before deciding upon what school to attend, please apply to the institu- 
tion for a prospectus, which will give you all desired information. 



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